Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Botswana

Note to travelers between Botswana and Namibia. You CAN get from Maun to Windhoek though it will take two days. Take the bus from Maun to Ghansi (47 pula) then the bus from Ghansi to the Mamuno (35 pula) then hitch to the border (15k) then walk across the border - there is a rest camp on the Namibian side where you should probably stay because it will be close to dark. You can get a ride from there. We went on to Gobabis and found a nice camp site for the night and hitched to Windhoek in the morning pretty easily.

Eric Ruben and I got from Lusaka to Maun, Botswana just hitching. And Ruben and I got all the way to Windhoek from Lusaka for something like $3 0 USD. Ama zing.

Botswana is a beautiful sun bleached place with lots of donkeys. One of the guys we hitched with bought donkeys for 50 pula (like $6.00) and sold them for a considerable mark up to Australia - who we later learned turns them into salami - allegedly. Ruben and I - in moments of self doubt and despair on the side of desolate and untraveled road- considered purchasing donkeys to travel to the border. Though we would have to buy a third to carry the bags and then would not really be affordable. We stayed at a great back packers in Botswana called the Old Bridge Backers. Kind of an ideal little place next to a lagoon. That region of Botswana is known for the Okavango Delta. Our sole reason for going was a mokoro trip through the fingers of the delta. A morkoro is a dug out canoe propelled by a poler. Like a gondola without the pomp and fuss. our boat had a woman poler named Kelly. The delta is like a river bleeding into grass land. the narrow water ways edged by tall grass and dotted with lilies. perfect lilies and lilly pads. fairy tale lilies. It also houses a wide range of birds, little white frogs, crocodiles, hippos.l I was a pretty perfect day.

The other highlight of Botswana was the craft market for crafts by the San people. Amazing baskets and ostrich egg beads. It left me ultimately dissatisfied with tourism. It is not enough. buying stuff is not enough. I want to learn how to make that stuff. I want to sit and listen to their click language all day. Being a tourist is fluff. I only have tickets to the show.

More on Namibia.